After we had the pants pattern, let’s add another basic pattern to the collection: a blouse/shirt with sleeves. My pattern has two variants, a normal/long one with normal sleeves, and a short one with slightly flared sleeves for some piraty-poof.
Bring a bit patience for the sleeves as it’s not that easy to get them into this tiny piece of clothing!
Let’s get started and add some sugar to the doll: Download the pattern by clicking here.
Cut your body piece in the fold of the fabric. Like always, the seam allowance is not included, so add seam allowance to your liking. Important: add some more in the back than on other seams, so you don’t have a hard time putting your closure in.
When you open the pattern to it’s full size, trace the seam allowance and darts on the other side as well. Also mark the shoulders for the sleeves.
Cut out the sleeves as well, in this example I simply cut them short as I wanted short sleeves. You can see I also hemmed them already, by zig-zagging the hem to secure it from fraying, and then ironing it flat and topstitching it.
Click on the images to enlarge
Sew the tiny darts into the bodice. Depending on machine and needles this *can* be a pain, please use 70 or 80 needles and make sure they aren’t old and have hooks on the tip that appear when they are used for a long time. If you’re unsure you can always sew them by hand! It doesn’t take that long ;)
Here come the horrors: on to the sleeves. Make some TINY cuts into the seam allowance – they may not go past your marked sewing line. This will allow you to bend the fabric better latter. I’m sorry I wasn’t able to take a better picture of this as it’s hard to pull it apart to see the little gaps. I’ll try to cover this on a video at some point and maybe use my husband as a slave to help out there.
Pin the sleeves into the hole. I start with the shoulder marking, then pin the edges at the side and then the rest in between. If you want to do yourself a favour, get some of the flat-headed needles like I have. The colourful bigger ones will not lay flat against the ground and can make sewing over them harder. Stay for your life away from the weird clips that are so very hot right now. I have no idea why anyone would want to use them.
Click on images to enlarge
That’s your sleeves in the blouse! Zig-zag the seam allowance to prevent fraying.
On to the facing of the neckline. Cut out a piece of fabric that has the same neckline and is about 1cm wide. Zig-zag- around the edges here as well.
Please be sure to enlarge to see the facing properly
Put the facing right side on right side and sew around the neckline to attach the facing. Now cut into the seam allowance again, and stop *just* before the seam. This is intimidating at first, but you will get used to it. Scissors that have a sharp tip help a lot here (something that I always lack lol)!
Now you can turn the facing to the other side and iron it (!!!!!!!!!!IRON IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Before you close the side seam, you should zig-zag the center back as it’s easer at that point then when the sides are closed. Once you did that, you can pin the side seams and close them (and zig-zag them).
Click on the images to enlarge
If you want your blouse to be a blouse, just iron the hem and topstitch it now. I turned it into a little dress, by simply adding a rectangle ruffled skirt (working on a video for that).